The dirt road that separates the Nu'uk Cheil Cottages and the Jaguar Preserve is only 10 kilometers, but due to bumpy terrain and unpredictable roadblocks, the ride usually takes 20 minutes each way. During this time, our Mayan guide Julio Saqui kept us entertained with stories about how the area had grown over the last several decades. He told us about Dr. Alan Rabinowitz, the famous environmentalist who established the world's first jaguar sanctuary here in the Stann Creek district. He told us about the British knight who taught English in his Dangriga high school, and helped him master his now impeccable English. He told us about his brother Ernesto, an accomplished conservationist recognized by the Audubon Society and a prominent member of the village council. Ever the modest and humble guide, it took us a while to finally learn anything about Julio himself.
He revealed to us that his long-time dream was to open a Mayan Culture Museum, and after many years of playing with the idea, he finally came up with a working prototype. Before he finally dropped us off at the doorstep of our hotel, he sheepishly asked whether we might be interested in seeing it before our tour the next morning. It's official opening would not be for another few weeks, so we would be getting a “sneak peek.” Deeply moved and honored that he was willing to share such a personal project with us, we accepted.
When we first arrived at the Maya Village Center, we walked past a thatched house on the way to our hotel. It was adjacent to Julio's tour office, so we assumed it must have been his home. Turns out, it was the actual museum. To better demonstrate the Mayan lifestyle, he had recreated a Mayan-styled house, complete with all the goodies you would find inside. As far as he knew, this full-sized model of the Mayan household was the first of its kind. While the lodgings may at first sight seem sparse and modest, a closer inspection (and a little more education) would reflect an economy of style that was beautiful, elegant, resourceful, and richly immersed in a deep tradition.
From top to bottom, the entire construction was handmade from the surrounding forest, whether it was the thatched-leaf roof bound together by dried vines to the woven hammock which swung in the common area. The real treasures, however, were the small details- the homemade broom which sat by the door, the various gourds and sticks which functioned as cooking utensils, even the simple artwork that decorated the walls. At one point we sat down at a table which turned out to be the stump of a mahogany tree – loggers had cannibalized the tree for lumber, but left behind a stump, which Julio was able to use. What was truly remarkable was that the entire home was completely functional in its current state. If he were to have lit the hearth, a typical household could have begun its daily routine with very little trouble. Nothing to move-in or “turn-on” - no electricity, no refrigeration, no running water. Every challenge we could fathom, this house came fully loaded. Even more fascinating, having lived with his British teacher and experiencing the so-called “privileged life,” Julio confessed to us that he still preferred the comfort of a hammock to a bed, and cooking from scratch everyday rather than re-heating food that was prepared before. That's no joke, as we learned that harvesting rice from the chaff, grinding corn for tortillas, and drying out coffee beans were all long, tedious processes. That morning, his wife had generously woken up before sunrise to make us some tasty, homemade chicken burritos for lunch. While it's a lifestyle I don't necessarily envy, it's one that I can't help but marvel at. The values of wasting nothing and using everything, the respect for nature, and perhaps most of all, the undeniable dignity and quiet satisfaction that stems from difficult, often thankless work – things which I feel us “first-worlders” sometimes lose sight of. As one of my friends in Honduras described it, “It's like camping all the time!”
The presentation came full circle, as it made the actual trek through the rainforest all the more meaningful. Now whenever he pointed out a particular species of tree or plant, we could visualize the final product and truly appreciate the immense amount of work that went into making it. If you ever have the opportunity to take an interpretive nature tour with a native guide, take advantage of it. Sure, you can follow the trails on your own and admire the prettiness of all the leaves and flowers, but it's a completely different perspective to experience the forest as the source of somebody's entire livelihood. We got to play with the sap from a rubber tree, smell wild vanilla bean, taste wild plums and nuts, and even learned about medicinal plants which are used as poison ivy treatment, breath freshener, or even birth control. (I'm not sure when I'll necessarily be putting any of this knowledge to practice, but I figure that it doesn't hurt to know).
Between staying in a family-owned cottage and hiking through an immaculately maintained nature preserve, I was impressed with how the entire town came together not only to protect their strong traditions, but to share them with others. I was particularly moved by Julio's Maya Culture Museum, a labor of love and a level of passion we should all strive for. When it comes to locally-owned and operated businesses, you just want to see them succeed. Hopefully, more travelers in Belize will take a chance and visit this truly unique living community – scorpions and all.
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